How does hyperpigmentation vary according to skin colour?

Hyperpigmentation does not affect all skin types in the same way. Skin colour, defined by phototype, plays a key role in the appearance of pigmentation spots, their intensity and how they develop. Some skin types are more prone to spots following inflammation, whilst others develop more sun-related spots.

What is a skin phototype?

A phototype refers to the skin’s natural ability to react to the sun: to burn, tan or protect itself. The most widely used classification is the Fitzpatrick scale, which distinguishes six skin types:

• Phototype I: very fair skin, burns easily, never tans
• Skin type II: fair skin, burns easily, tans slightly
• Skin type III: medium skin, tans gradually
• Skin type IV: olive skin, tans easily, rarely burns
• Skin types V to VI: dark to very dark skin, tans intensely, burns very rarely

This classification helps us better understand how the skin reacts to UV rays and its risk of developing brown spots.

Why is darker skin more prone to certain types of dark spots?

Darker skin (phototypes IV to VI) has highly active melanocytes, which means it produces melanin more readily.

Whilst this provides better natural protection against the sun, it also makes it more susceptible to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

In practical terms, even minor skin damage can leave a mark: an acne spot, irritation, a scar or even friction.

These events can lead to persistent brown spots, which are sometimes difficult to fade. Furthermore, certain overly aggressive treatments such as strong chemical peels or certain laser treatments can accentuate pigmentation rather than correct it.

The specific characteristics of fair skin in relation to hyperpigmentation

Fair skin (phototypes I to III) is more sensitive to sunburn and UV-related skin ageing. It is more prone to developing:

• solar lentigines (sunspots)
• signs of photoageing (wrinkles, spots)

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation also occurs, but it is generally less pronounced than on darker skin.

Why is it essential to tailor skincare to your skin type?

Each skin type requires a specific approach to effectively treat pigmentation spots without damaging the skin.

• Fair skin: more intensive treatments (peels, lasers) may be used, always in combination with rigorous sun protection
• Medium to dark skin: opt for gentle, non-irritating skincare to avoid overstimulating melanin